October 29th, 1997 to November 4th, 1997

Seattle: Emerald City of the Pacific Northwest

Part Two, by Richard Klein

We continue our story of travel to Seattle (see Oct. 22 Outlines for Part One).

Pioneer Square and the Waterfront
On the southern flank of Seattle's downtown area is the historic Pioneer Square, known as the world's "original skid row." Now it has been gussied up, but it is truly an authentic restoration of late 19th century architecture.

Here is where the Alaska Gold Rush was launched. There are great shops for browsing, including the renowned Elliot Bay Book Company. Seattle stops at the waterfront, the edge of Puget Sound. The waterfront is lined with piers where freighters from the Orient once tied up to load and unload goods. But as ships grew larger, the piers could no longer accommodate them, and the waterfront area fell into decay.

But now, the piers have been renovated and are a major tourist attraction, with some of Seattle's best seafood restaurants.

On Pier 59, is the Seattle Aquarium with exhibits of marine life in Puget Sound, including a fascinating tide pool, and a coral reef exhibit. The aquarium also has a salmon ladder, and during the spawning season, visitors can watch the aquarium's salmon swim "upstream" to spawn.

The Food Scene
Coffee is life's lubricant here. It seems that on every street corner--and sometimes in the middle of the block--there is a coffee bar. Starbuck's and Seattle's Best originated here. But there are many other coffee places besides. You will never be far from a Dark Roast or cappachino when you're in Seattle.

Beyond the coffee establishments, the Seattle dining scene is quite good! There is a pronounced Asian influence in Seattle's population, and this is reflected in an array of fine Pacific Rim restaurants. There are also continental restuarants. We sampled and enjoyed Isabella for Italian; Palomino, for Provincial French and Mediterranean. And if you're interested in Bolivian cuisine, try the Copacabana at Pike Place Market.

Northwest Salmon is a specialty in Seattle. In fact, the city is noted for its fine seafood restaurants.

Seattle Side Trips
Seattle is strategically located for short trips to some other wonderful spots. Some of them can be reached by water. To the north, Victoria, British Columbia, can be reached via a coastal vessel, the Victoria Clipper. Puget Sound ferries travel between Seattle and either Bremerton or Bainbridge Island. They leave from Pier 52, the Washington State Ferries Terminal.

A round trip to the town of Winslow on Bainbridge Island lasts about an hour, and the scenery is magnificent. On the journey, you will have a breath-taking view of Mt. Rainier, rising in snowy majesty in the distance, while sailboats cruise placidly all around you. The trip to Bremerton is a little longer. There are also tour boats that go out for day or half-day excursions.

No matter which a visitor may chose, some type of outing on Puget Sound is highly recommended. To really see the area's beauty, however, we recommend renting a car and driving out to the wilderness. Less than an hour's drive can take you into bear country in the Olympic National Forest to the west across Puget Sound, or to the east, the Cascade Range, Mt. Rainier, or Mt. Baker. There are many hiking trails and camping sites, and in the cool evergreen forests, you will really feel you are a thousand miles from the stresses of civilization as we know it. Then there is Port Townsend, located on a fjord off Puget Sound, with lovely Victorian buildings. You can visit the little Bavarian hamlet of Leavenworth, and I especially enjoyed the nearby artist town of LaConner. I overnighted at the quaint Majestic Inn in Anacortes, gateway to the San Juan Islands.

Where to Stay
Speaking of places to stay, Seattle hotels we like range from the moderate to the deluxe. The former include the Pacific Plaza and the Westcoast Vance. The latter include the Alexis, the Inn at the Market, and the Vintage Park. For those who prefer a large chain hotel in downtown Seattle, there is the Sheraton, Holiday Inn, Four Seasons, and Westin.

Recommended gay and lesbian accommodations include the Gaslight Inn, with nine guest rooms, and the Bacon Mansion B&B. Both of these establishments are located on Capitol Hill. We highly recommend Seattle as an all-year place for gay men and lesbians to visit. If it is raining lightly, as it is prone to do in Seattle, just step into the nearest Starbuck's for a cup of Seattle java. The rainfall is likely to be light, but the pleasure you will find in Seattle is truly heavy duty.

Your travel writer: Richard Klein is a travel counselor at Envoy Travel, Inc., 740 N. Rush St., Suite 609, Chicago IL 60611. Envoy is owned and managed by Cynthia A. Marquard. Richard or Cynthia can be reached at 312-787-2400 or 1-800-44-ENVOY.

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