October 22nd, 1997 to October 28th, 1997

Seattle: Emerald City of the Pacific Northwest

Part One, by Richard Klein

Coffee! Grunge! Birkenstocks! Salmon! More Coffee! Film Freaks! Ferries! Backpacking! And More Coffee! These are the real and perceived images of Seattle. If Vancouver is the Emerald City's Good Witch of Western Canada, Seattle definitely qualifies for Emerald City's Good Witch of the U.S. Northwest. On a recent visit, I found this town to have all the requisite attractions to please even the most discriminating gay and lesbian traveler.

A setting worthy of a precious stone
Like San Francisco, Seattle sits dramatically on several hills cusping the waterfront. This gives Seattle the flavor of a seaport; but it also has the atmosphere of a mountain logging town and all the amenities of a major resort area.

Ships ply the waters of Puget Sound and forests climb the mountainsides of the Cascade Range to the east and the Olympic mountains to the west. On a clear day, the almost unbelievable grandeur of Mt. Rainier looms large and snow-capped over the city.

Capitol Hill: Gay/Lesbian Center
Seattle has a thriving gay and lesbian community. Capitol Hill is the center of the action, and Broadway is the axis around which gay/lesbian life revolves. The Seattle Gay News contains an excellent graphic map showing the locales of bars, inns, bookstores, shops, and, in general, the places to be.

Seattle bar names are fairly original; we give you a sample: Kid Mohairs, Jade Pagoda, and CC Attle's, which features the New Verandah Room, circa 1946. (Are snoods, seamed stocks, and fedoras the required dress here?)

Also in the Capitol Hill area is Volunteer Park, long popular with gay men, and the rallying point for Seattle's Gay/Lesbian Pride Parades. The park contains a water tower that you can climb--and be rewarded with a great city view. Volunteer Park has a very fine Asian Art Museum and a Conservatory. Nearby Lake View cemetery is the resting place for Bruce Lee and son Brandon.

Shopping
For the ultimate "Gay Mall of America" experience, seek out Broadway Market, a three-story atrium with restaurants, shops, a gay and lesbian gym, and full cinema. Truly a Gay-Mart experience. Shoppers take note: Downtown Seattle is the headquarters for Nordstrom's. Not only that, but there is an entire building there that serves as Nordstrom's outlet. In addition, Downtown Seattle has a good share of antique stores. And Seattle is a book lover's Mecca. On 1st Ave., I especially liked the Arundel used bookstore, which has a small but serviceable gay and lesbian collection. Downtown is very close to Capitol Hill. And within the downtown zone, buses are free!

Pike Market Place
At the top of the list of unique shopping experiences is the Pike Place Market, a foodie's paradise, with the freshest of fish, fruits and vegetables, and an exquisite floral market. It is a labyrinth of shops on various levels that can hold your attention for hours. To me, it is the very soul of Seattle.

Pike Street runs down one of Seattle's several hills, through the downtown area, and ends in this remarkable conglomeration of old warehouses, street stalls, and store fronts that make up Pike Place Market. In addition to food, you can find woodcarvings, handmade clothes, and T-shirts printed with Northwest Indian designs. There are a number of places to eat at the market. Some overlook Puget Sound; some look down on the market stalls.

Seattle Center
To the north of Pike Place Market lies the Seattle Center, site of the 1962 Seattle world's fair. The king (or queen) pin here is the fabulous Space Needle. Relive early 1960's, Jetson-style dreams by ascending the Space Needle via elevator and, on a clear day enjoying a panoramic view. There are also two revolving restaurants on top. Seattle Center also contains an amusement park, fast-food concessions, and a number of gift shops. In addition, there are buildings for plays. concerts, and exhibits, including the Pacific Arts Center and the Pacific Science Center. Various festivals are held here throughout the year

From the downtown area, you can reach the Center in style via the Monorail!

Next installment: More about Seattle, including side trips on and off Puget Sound and Where to Stay.
Your travel writer: Richard Klein is a travel counselor at Envoy Travel, Inc., 740 N. Rush St., Suite 609, Chicago IL 60611. Envoy is owned and managed by Cynthia A. Marquard. Richard or Cynthia can be reached at 312-787-2400 or 1-800-44-ENVOY.

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